Cleaning inwood wood furniture

Daily Dusting

Clean with a slightly damp, soft cloth, using another soft cloth to dry.  Always wipe the surface in direction of the wood grain.

Cleaning and Caring for Furniture

With a little tender loving care, your beautiful hardwood furniture can last a lifetime and beyond.

"Care entails understanding the nature of wood as well as knowing how to prolong the life of the finish film that protects the wood,

Changes in relative humidity are wood's No. 1 enemy.

Sutton suggests trying to keep your home's temperature to 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Relative humidity should be 50 percent to 55 percent. Specific levels, however, are not as important as avoiding radical swings in the temperature and the amount of moisture in the air.

1. If furniture is to be stored, it generally does better in an unheated environment because the relative humidity will fluctuate within a much narrower range. Air can hold more moisture at a high temperature than at a low one.
2. Wood can best handle temperature changes and relative humidity if they occur gradually. Abrupt changes (closing or opening a vacation home, for example) can stress your furniture.
3. When air conditioning your home, keep the intake of outside humid air to a minimum.
4. Add humidifiers or vaporizing units to a heating/air conditioning central system to help stabilize the humidity level.
5. Use dehumidifiers during wet, rainy times and in damp rooms to remove excess moisture from the air.

DO NOT USE A FEATHER DUSTER because it will simply move dust around, flinging it into the air. Feather dusters can't be washed, and a quill could scratch the wood surface if a feather breaks off. Dust is abrasive so infrequent or improper dusting can create a worn, dull surface over the years. Dust can accumulate in carvings, cracks and grooves and make wood look dark and unattractive. This dusty buildup eventually becomes hard to remove.

BE VERY CAREFUL USING WATER to clean wood. Wood should never get wet or soaked. Water can cause swelling, warping or staining when it penetrates a finish. Use coasters, pads, cloths or runners to protect against spills and water rings.

How to Dust

Here are some detailed tips from the experts. Use a clean, washable cloth made of soft, lint-free cotton. The best choices include an old T- shirt, diaper, cheesecloth, dish towel, piece of flannel, or chamois. The cloth should have no snaps, buttons, zippers or thick seams that could scratch furniture surfaces. Do not use a cloth that has hanging threads or unraveling edges. These could catch on wood slivers, molding, knobs or other loose pieces.

Dry Dusting Versus Damp Dusting

Dusting with a dry cloth is abrasive and will ultimately dull the finish. A dry cloth will not really remove dust,

Recommend sprinkling a few drops of water onto the dusting cloth. The trick is to moisten the cloth just enough to make dust adhere to it. The cloth should not be so damp that it wets the wood. If you can see any trace of water on the wood after you wipe, your cloth is too damp. Some conservators recommend using distilled water for heirlooms or antiques.

You might want to use a spray-on dusting aid or polish. If so, consider whether you want to apply silicone oil to your finishes. This type of oil is used in most commercial furniture sprays and polishes. To find out if your product contains silicone oil, consult the label or call the manufacturer.

Follow the Grain

Wipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the grain of the wood. Turn or fold the cloth as soon as dirt is visible on any section. Keep a pile of clean cloths handy so you don't move dust and dirt from one spot to another. Lift, don't slide, lamps and objects to dust under and around them. Avoid soiling adjoining upholstery. Launder soiled dusting cloths immediately.

One common myth is that wood furniture is "alive." It does not "breathe," so don't worry about clogging up pores with wax. It does not need to be "nourished" or "fed'' with oily polishes. Changes in humidity, not a lack of oil, cause wood to crack.

PASTE WAX has been used for centuries as a finishing material and a furniture care product. If used properly, paste wax will provide a thick, hard, lasting finish. Liquid wax is similar, but typically provides a thinner coating. Waxes dry hard so they do not smear and attract dust and dirt. Paste wax typically lasts six months to a couple years, depending on how much the furniture is used and how many coats are applied. Paste wax will help delay the formation of water rings, giving you a little extra time to wipe up the moisture. Some people, especially antique lovers, prefer the soft sheen provided by waxes. Wax will not interfere with future refinishing.

Make sure you buy a wax designed especially for wood furniture. Waxes for cars, shoes or other finishes might harm furniture.

OILY CLEANERS and polishes will not provide a lasting, hard coat. Those containing silicone oil will create a nice shine and a slippery surface, but they can interfere with refinishing. This type of oil can seep through cracks in the finish into the wood. That can ruin the new finish later. Be aware that labels often fail to say whether products contain silicone oil. Follow the manufacturers' instructions when using spray or liquid polishes.
If you have waxed your furniture and want to switch to an oil-based polish or vice-versa, first clean the furniture with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Do this in a spot with plenty of ventilation away from any heat source or sparks. First test the product you are using in an inconspicuous spot. When the piece is clean and dry, wax or polish. If you accidentally mix wax and oil, the finish will turn cloudy. In that case, wipe the finish off and clean it with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Wax or polish when the finish is dry.

CLEAN BRASS HARDWARE with caution. If the brass hardware on your furniture has a protective lacquer coating, it probably will not tarnish and will only need to be dusted. If the brass is tarnishing and you want to polish it, either remove the brass or slide a piece of Mylar plastic behind the hardware so that the brass cleaner does not touch the finish.

Watch the Humidity

Furniture ages more quickly if stored in a basement, attic, garage or warehouse. Place furniture away from all heat sources, if possible. If you must put furniture near an air duct, use a shield or guard plate to direct heat away.

Avoid placing furniture in front of radiators, heat runs or fireplaces. Store table leaves as close as possible to the table so they adjust to the same humidity conditions.

Avoid Direct Sunlight

The ultraviolet rays of the sun will damage a finish and bleach the wood underneath. Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause the finish to crack, sometimes in a pattern resembling the skin of an alligator. Tablecloths and doilies slow down the process, but they don't stop it. Try to keep furniture out of direct sunlight. When that's not possible, reduce the amount of light streaming on any piece of furniture. Consider planting shrubs in front of windows to block direct sunlight. Use window shades, drapes or blinds to block light during the time of day the furniture is exposed. Consider using UV screening films or tinting windows and skylights.
Uniformly expose surfaces to light. Especially avoid letting the sun hit only part of a surface. Occasionally move lamps, doilies and other objects so the wood bleaches uniformly. Consider covering furniture with sheets or blankets if you leave your home for part of the year. Consider moving furniture around periodically so that the same piece does not absorb light all the time. Remember that some bleaching can be desirable. Antique collectors actually look for the rich, soft tones that slight fading can bring.

Avoid Chemical Exposure

Keep solvents such as nail polish remover, alcohol and paint thinner away from wood furniture because they can harm the finish. Alcohol is contained in colognes, perfumes and medications as well as in wine, beer and liquor. Fingerprints, perspiration and body oils can harm a finish over time, especially on chairs. Plants and flower nectar that touch the finish can also cause permanent stains.
Placing hot items on furniture can cause a chemical change in the finish that results in white rings or spots.

Keep Plastic Off Wood

Do not leave plastic objects lying on wood surfaces. Color from plastic tablecloths, appliance covers, wrappers, place mats and toys can leach into wood over time. Plastic can also stick to a finish, damaging it when it is pulled up.

Guard Against Scratches

Lift, don't slide, objects on wood. Place objects on trivets, tablecloths, doilies or others covers to protect the finish. Use felt bottoms on lamps and other decorative objects. Avoid brightly colored felt because its color could leach into the wood. Some experts say brown is the best color choice

Clean the surface with a quality cleaner or Murphy’s Oil Soap formulated especially for wood furniture.  Dilute in accordance with manufacturer directions.  Dampen, but do not saturate a soft cloth with dilute cleaning solution and wipe the surface in the direction of the wood grain to remove dirt and fingerprints.  Wipe the surface clean with a soft, dry cloth.

Oils and ammonia should never be used on your wood furniture.

Murphy® Oil Soap Multi-Use Wood Cleaner with Orange Oil

How to use Murphy® Oil Soap Original Formula

How to use Murphy Soft Wipes®

Wax build-up may occur over a period of time.  Furniture has wax build-up when it attracts an unusual amount of dirt and feels sticky.  Human body oil can cause this build-up.  Use same instructions for monthly cleaning.

Waxing

A quality spray polish may be applied after each monthly cleaning.  Excessive waxing may result in a sticky wax build-up.  A non-silicone polish is recommended, such as Mohawk Tone-Finish #107-0200.  To purchase this you can call Mohawk Finishing Products @ 518/843-1380.

Instructions for cleaning white residue off desk

Basic cleaning steps for laminate tops

• Wash the surface with mild dishwashing liquid or powered detergent and warm water.  Use a soft dishcloth.  Rinse with warm water, and dry with a soft cloth.

• For spots you can’t remove with Step 1, use an all-purpose cleaner or bathroom cleaner.  Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.  Rinse with warm water, and dry with a soft cloth.

• For very stubborn spots, make a paste with a baking soda and water.  The paste will be slightly abrasive; so work carefully to keep from damaging the surface you’re cleaning.  Dip a soft bristle brush into the paste to cover the bristles.  Then gently rub the spot with the brush, moving in a circle and pressing very lightly.  Rinse the surface with warm water and dry with a soft cloth.  Repeat Steps 1, 2, and 3 as necessary, if the spot seems to be going away.

• If the spot still remains, use undiluted household bleach (we recommend Clorox).  Be very careful to protect your skin-it’s a good idea to wear rubber gloves when working with full strength bleach.  Apply the bleach to the spot, and let it stand NO MORE THAN ONE AND ONE-HALF MINUTES.  Rinse several times with plenty of warm water.  Dry with a clean, soft cloth.  If spot seems to be gong away, repeat above steps.

• Refer to separate listing for treatment of special stains, such as inks, dyes, and fruit juices.  Always follow manufacturer’s directions, and cautions with any cleaning product you use.

• When a recommended product advertises that it has been “improved,” test it before using routinely.  Sometimes an ingredient has been added, or one already present has been intensified, and the change may be harmful to your Wilsonart surface.